Riders need the full protection when on the bike, yet they want to look & feel comfortable when off the bike. The combination of protective materials such as Dupont Kevlar fibre & fashionable clothing like straight leg denim jeans has quickly become the preferred choice when riding their motorcycle.

With the demand exploding for casual protective motorcycle clothing; Brands have all come up with their own version of riding jeans. With so many options/variances in the market it can get quite confusing & difficult to make a decision. I've compiled my design/manufacturing knowledge into 5 key points that should help you make an informed decision when purchasing your protective motorcycle jeans. (NEW Kevlar GSM video below)

Kevlar:

DuPont Kevlar is the trusted name for aramid fibre. The company has well & truly proven itself producing a light weight high strength fibre. It regularly combs the market of sellers using its fibre and ensures sellers/brands are actually purchasing the genuine Kevlar fibre. The material can only be purchased through authorised resellers. 

Denim jeans reinforced with DuPont Kevlar come in many types of weaves, the most common construction used in riding jeans is woven & terry loop knitted which all varies in weight & thickness. Kevlar is priced by weight so if you see riding jeans in the low $100 range, the weight of the Kevlar won’t be that much. (ie: less Kevlar between the road & your ass)

Unfortunately Kevlar & price indicator is not enough to tell us if it will protect you, an independent study found the weave type, gauge/thickness & gsm has a huge impact on the abrasion time.

Woven or Knitted? Woven has been proven to be weaker through independent impact abrasion tests because of its thin tight weave construction it rips & abrades away alot quicker than a terry loop knitted method. The terry loop construction offers a thicker gauge & has more give so it won’t snap/rip as easy providing longer abrasion resistance. Knitted allows air through providing breath-ability for comfort.

The gsm (grams per square meter) is the weight/thickness of the Kevlar, the higher the number the better it is, too heavy can be quite thick/hot. Anything under 300gsm knitted should be avoided. 400+gsm is the ideal amount. 300gsm = level 1.  2x300gsm or 450gsm = level2 (note: this guide is only for knitted kevlar).

Kevlar Positioning:

The positioning of the Kevlar is equally important to the actual Kevlar used. Some brands have design rights to the positioning of the Kevlar (that’s why a lot have their own special method).

From many reviews and crash testimonials we have discovered the only safe option is to have Kevlar lined front and back, waist to ankle. When you come off sliding along the ground at 60 km’s you’re not going to have time to ensure the knee Kevlar patch is positioned on your knee, in most cases the denim will twist around exposing behind the leg (where no Kevlar is positioned).

Stitching:

The materials are only as good as the stitching that holds it together. Its best to have 1 to 2 outside stitch with 2 inside stitch (race standard safety stitch) for all major seams, front/back rise & inner/outer leg. This takes more time & care which costs more. The thread weight & material are equally important, as a guide just make sure the thread gauge is thick and a polyester or nylon.

Denim:

Although the denim won’t protect you, it’s important to get a colour and wash affect that suits your taste. Their is nothing worse than walking around in jeans that look like they cost $5-$10 with Kevlar sewn in them. For maximum comfort you need soft touch & preshrunk denim in the weight of 11oz to 13oz. Stretch denim is commonly used in womens jeans but we're seeing stretch jeans in the mens range becoming popular, its important you take care with the wash instructions for stretch denim because if heated too high it can shrink. A good cut of Kevlar motorcycle jeans preshrunk will last longer and be as comfortable as stretch denim.

Cut:

You will find Kevlar Jeans available in a variety of leg cuts such as Skinny, Slim, Straight, Boot, Chino, Cargo etc. Its best you stick to your regular style jeans, the common fit that works for most is a straight leg.

The cut of motorcycle jeans are slightly different to normal jeans. Make sure the front & back rise is not too low, otherwise they will be very uncomfortable when sitting on the bike and your backside won’t be covered. Make sure they don’t sit too high because it will put pressure on your abdomen & make it difficult to swing your leg over the seat.

Its important the pants fit neat so the material especially the ankle doesn't flap in the wind. Ensure enough room for comfort when sitting on the bike to reduce fatigue & discomfort, eg pressure point behind leg. If the pants are too loose in the thighs/knees/shins they will most likely twist and cause injury.

Kevlar Weight (GSM) Competitor Analysis

The video views Kevlar fabrics in more detail, showing the difference between woven/interlock & knitted Kevlar as well as the weights you may see from various brands. 

Independent tests (en-13595 impact abrasion test) has shown Finn Moto's 300+gsm knitted Kevlar meets level 1 abrasion protection (uk/europe standard). The purpose of the video is to show you what Finn Moto Kevlar looks like with side by side comparisons of other brands Kevlar.

Its important you buy from brands that can actually prove how protective the motorcycle wear is. For example "Kevlar lined" is not enough information. Brands that offer detailed item specification &/or independent abrasion tests results preferably UK SATRA's EN-13595 Impact Abrasion Test are the ideal choice.

Saying that the video will show you two Kevlar hoodies with almost identical protective fabric description, yet the differences between the Kevlar fabrics are massive. 

Hopefully this guide & video will help you find the right motorcycle Kevlar jeans for you whilst still ensuring you get what is advertised & most importantly protected.

New: EN-13595:2002 Level 1, Level 2 vs EN 17092 A, AA, AAA rated

The end of 2022 turns the page for many brands product lines, marketing jargon & rating system. It leads a new path for some and others to continue on the same proven track. With the official Europe CE rating now only recognising EN17092, which involves a completely different testing method it started to create more questions than answers.

For Australians the rating doesn't really change the available range of products in the market, rather it will start to give an indication of the sort of 'minimum' protection to expect coming into the market using the "AAA" as a sales pitch. The big question was how does the old rating vs the new rating compare with each other?

After seeing the test results, to say I was disappointed and shocked is a understatement. Testing a pair of EN-17092 AAA rated jeans on the Cambridge machine EN13595:2002 gave a impact abrasion average of 1.53 seconds. Yet the lowest rating level 1 tested on the same machine is expected to last 4 seconds. From our customers crash testimonials level 1 (4 seconds) is pretty much the lowest protection you will want if traveling outside the city, especially on Australia's old roads. Its quite shocking to see AAA marketed as the best abrasion protection available, since its now impossible to know how many seconds the AAA rated garment is, as its a simple pass/fail. 

If your wanting to go down the bunny rabbit hole further I found a good read from Bennetts UK. Another great website to visit is an independent testing company (Australian government owned) called Motocap they test motorcycle gear available in motorcycle shops. I hope they start testing online brands in the near future where you can see how protective the motorcycle gear is tested with a realistic abrasion machine (Cambridge EN13595). 

Here are the 2023 test results independently tested impact abrasion (EN 13595:2002) of our new Finn Moto range. Note: The testing machine is harsher in Australia vs the UK and the armour was removed for this test.

Kevlar blend denim w/ extra layer at knee (AAA rated material) - 1.53 seconds
882 - Normal denim with 350gsm terry loop kevlar fully lined (level 1) - 3.8 seconds
881 - Kevlar denim (AAA rated) with 350gsm terry loop kevlar fully lined (level 2) - 6.3 seconds

Update: March 2025. Our jeans have been tested by motocap! 
- 881 rated 5 stars, 9.31 seconds
- 882 rated 4 stars, 6.47 seconds.

Read on: See Motorcycle Jeans Range & Abrasion Test Results in Item Description

If you have any other questions or concerns please dont hesitate to email

Stay Connected:

Fitting the saddlebags can be as easy or as hard as you'd like to make it. You'll find the more you want everything to match up and look identical the longer & trickier it becomes. The manufactures how to video and supplied instructions is a great guide and highly recommend watching it for a starting point. Over the years we've dived deep into each step and with the help of our wise old riders sharing tips/tricks we've managed to come up with the How to fit Easy Brackets Guide - Australia.

Fitting Saddlebags with Easy Brackets:

1.       Once selected saddlebags and easy brackets to fit your specific motorcycle & hardware setup (turn signals relocated if required) you’ll need the following tools. DRILL, pilot 4mm & (9.5MM or 3/8") DRILL BIT, 9/16 SOCKET SET, ALLEN KEYS, MARKER PEN, LOCTITE (blue medium 245 or red high 263).

2.       At bikes rear fender, Remove one bolt and replace with longer supplied bolt and docking post. (Some keepers are longer than others, ensure its arranged to create a vertical line). Apply blue 245 or red 263 loctite to bolt end and tighten firm. Repeat to the other 3 holes.

3.       Slide easy brackets onto the docking posts to ensure it slides on firm. If you would prefer a snugger fit add a washer to one of the docking posts. Get ready to position saddlebags; move bike to flat surface with plenty of space, can prop bike up a little with bit of wood under kickstand or use a centre stand. Grab a box with other flat bits to help hold bag at a certain height or get someone to help hold it.

4.       Starting on exhaust side, check over bike carefully. To get the bags in the best position consider, Pillion, Exhaust, Indicator, Shock Absorber, Drive belt, Brake calipers & riders seat clearance; try to get bag low as possible so the top of bag is lower than the pillion seat base, following the line of the rear guard. At this point don’t worry if its not perfectly horizontal, focus on the top front part of bag; trace the bracket. Notes: (1inch / 2.5cm space from exhaust minimum). Be mindful of saddlebags internal metal brace, if you drill holes too close you'll need to cut some washers in half to pack out.so washer and nylon nut and fit.

5.       Take bracket off and position it on the tracing. Mark the top front corner hole, pilot 4mm drill and 9.5mm / 3/8" drill hole. Fit small 3/8 bolt head with washer inside of bag, feed smaller washer and half size nylon loc nut through brackets top front slot hole (Tip: use allen key or drill bit to feed the nut onto the bolt thread; don’t push bolt all the way through otherwise socket bit wont fit in *you'll need a short socket bit or patience with a 9/16 wrench and prop handle through hole end* otherwise turn the bolt around for easier securing). Tighten firm with 9/16 socket so bracket holds bag firm.

6.       Slide bracket with bag back on the motorcycle. Pivot bag up and down until your happy with the line. If exhaust is horizontal use it to get the bags horizontal. Once happy mark the bracket & the 2 holes at bottom. Take off bike and drill holes.
   

7.       Undo the nut and bolt, remove the bracket off the saddlebag and mirror the 4 drilled holes to the other saddlebag. Lay the drilled bag face down with lid open and position other bag ontop (back to back), focus on matching up front, bottom and back panels. With smaller pen or 4mm drill bit mark through holes parallel as possible into the other bag.

8.       Bolt the bracket to the first bag with existing holes. Double washer each side. Once bolted up firm slide brackets+saddlebags on motorcycle. 

9.   Grab the other bracket & position on marked holes on bag, trace corners of bracket. Slide bracket on the bike and position bags over the traced line and check it mirrors up. You can also measure points of reference on the other bag, focusing on the front top hole.

10. Once happy with the position trace bracket repeat steps 5 6 & 8. It should match up or be very close to the mirrored marked holes; repeating the steps is a good way to make sure it looks good both sides.

Hopefully this step by step guide made the fit easier & took away alot of the guess work for a more accurate fit. We're always looking to improve; if you would like to add to the Aussie fit way please email or call your suggestions. Looking forward to seeing photos of your next saddlebag ride day. email: sales@finnmoto.com.au

Easy Brackets Installation Video:

Finding some motorcycle saddlebags for your Indian Scout can be a bit of a puzzle as it all depends on your specific setup. Assuming you have stock exhausts without a passenger seat you really want some saddlebags that are not taller than 10.5inch; any taller you risk either hitting the exhaust or the bags stick up over the rear fender which doesn't look the best. Where as if you have aftermarket exhausts and/or passenger seat you can get away with longer and taller bags without them looking over the top.

Being a medium size cruiser its best to stick with medium size saddlebags which generally measures 16 to 18inch length, 10 to 11inch height & 6 to 7inch width.

The stacked stock exhaust finishes high, external shock absorber & low rear fender guard limits your options to the shape of the medium size saddlebag. You can utilise the space by opting for a longer rectangle bag due to the indicators already pushed right back. Avoid overly large, tall and wide saddlebags to ensure they become part of the bike. There is nothing worse than sticking two large size bags that take away the look and function of your Scout.

Breaking it down into options there is two paths you can take, depending your budget and how you plan to use the saddlebags you can choose a cost effective fixed Throwover Saddlebags or a Lockable Quick Release Saddlebags that takes your Indian Scout back to a stock look in seconds leaving no ugly mounting hardware on the bike.

At the moment there are two throwover saddlebag designs that will work with the Indian Scout; Models 507 & 509. The 507 is a great all-round saddlebag that will fill in the available space of the Indian scout, it measures 17inch in length, approx 10.5inch height and 6.5inch width; they’re not the biggest bags but as you can see work well as a day & travel saddlebag. 

The 509 small has a bit more character to it; offering a chopper style. Its a little smaller in size but ideal for someone looking only to hold a few things and not have the bags stand out too much. The 509 is available in full black and brown strap. If your looking for a bit more storage its available in a larger size without the throwover feature called model 109.

The model 109 as pictured below with brown belt & V lid with decorative brown stitching is also available in full black. It fits best with the lockable saddlebag brackets. The bag measures approx 16inch x 11inch x 7inch it fills the available space on the Indian Scout with rear passenger seat quite well, you wouldn't want to go any bigger.

Easy lockable saddlebag brackets, allows you to mount any saddlebags to your motorcycle. The kid includes all the mounting hardware required to fit the saddlebags & brackets to your specific Indian Scout. Fits with and without detachable backrest, the docking posts add onto your indian posts allowing you to use the backrest and saddlebag brackets independently. 

The motorcycle saddlebags that fits the Indian Scout perfectly is our well refined 510L; this bag continues to surprise us fitting all sorts of medium size cruisers such as Triumph America, Honda Rebel, Yamaha Roadliner, Harley Davidson Low Rider etc... Its a medium sized lockable bag that includes inner lid organiser and inner removable bag, the lid opens from the rear forward achieving a sleek modern look. With a stock & aftermarket exhaust you can get the bag down really low complimenting the lines of the bike sitting level with the rear fenders. Paired with the lockable easy brackets you can take them on and off in seconds, going from traveler to weekend rider in seconds.

If you prefer to fit larger saddlebags with a cleaner finished look & the ability to take the bags on & off in seconds leaving no ugly hardware then our rigid saddlebag line is worth checking out. Models 108L, 109 & 510L work really well on the Indian Scout. If you like the throwover styles they are built just as rigid so you can remove the middle yoke and bolt them to the brackets aswell. See our saddlebag range & Indian Scout Saddlebag Brackets.

A new style that was specifically designed for Medium sized cruisers is our 108L - available January 2021 (pictures coming soon)

If you have any questions or suggestions your more than welcome to contact and work out the best setup for you.

Contact us - sales@finnmoto.com.au or Matt - 0405 247 408